puke, witches, juice and bombs ...

It's been an eventful past few days. I've never felt sicker in my life and the funny thing is, I risked eating the food from the stands in the outdoor markets and never felt healthier. I ate avocado, tomato and egg sandwiches for breakfast, big juicy beef and veggie sandwiches and sausages at night, I ate every empanada, salteña, dulce or postre they had on the stand... nothing. As soon as I ate at a real" restaurant and at the time even felt a little better about eating there since there was likely much better hygiene in this woman's establishement --- I was bedridden for the rest of the night - that was when I wasn't in the bathroom hovering over the toilet for - ahem - one reason or another.

Mmmm pizza...
_______

On a brighter note, we visited the dark side of La Paz (the name of the city means "Peace") in the witches' market the other day. Unknowingly we had stumbled upon it the day before but had simply thought La Paz was normally on crack and sold the fetuses of llamas for the fun of it... When we finally realized that the place we had been was in fact the witches market, and because of all the strange potions, herbs, incense, bottles of blood or wine, and big baskets of crusty llama fetuses I couldn't help myself... I asked one of the storekeepers what the deal was with all the weirdocity.

The explanation was too simple. "Well," he said. "It's for offerings to Pachamama (mother earth) because she is the one who can bring health, wealth, luck and happieness to the homes of the Paceñas who offer these objects to her." So in fact, one would purchase these perfumes, potions and a fetus (for luck to the weary traveller) and burn them all in a big decorated pile amidst a prayer to Pachamama for their future wellbeing.

You would think that from the state of things here in La Paz that they would take the hint that it might not be working ??? Other than feeling overwhelmed by the ignorance of these people it was otherwise fascinating.

Mmmm llama fetus...
________

Aside from all other experiences we've had so far in La Paz, I would have to say the one that brings to mind the most rainbows and sunshine and happieness is the SMOOTHIES. These are in fact the simplest idea on the face of the planet, yet they also happen to be one of the healthiest and most deliciousest loveliest little big drink ever. One banana and a bunch of milk, throw it all in a blender for two minutes and Voilá! instant breakfast-slash-treat. They sell them practically by the pound here and even though they are only about 2 bolivianos a piece, we have very likely spent more than U.S. $10 on them.

Mmmm smoothies (they call them "jugos" here)...

________

Interesting news, I'm sure you've heard it by now. Coal miners in Bolivia are on strike and they are blowing off dynamite in the streets of La Paz. ... no worries. It only disrupts my sleep maybe twice or three times a night. At first I thought it was the normal gunshots because we were naturally in a big city, so I was able to relax about it a bit. Then I heard the word "dynamite" and decided I should steer clear of the center of town... which happens to be where our hostel is located...

Mmmm dynamite... ?